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So I'm diving into the Brazilian Rosewood world shortly at a customer's request and have a few questions:

1. The sets I purchased come with CITES documentation that I am supposed to simply print off (e-copy only). Is this standard practice to utilize duplicated documentation? I was expecting original documents.

2. Any advise on type of glue and prep process for this tropical rosewood? Wipe clean with solvent prior?

3. Optimal back thickness for an OM? I usually shoot for about 0.100" but might that be a bit thick?

BTW I am pairing the b/s with an Adirondack top.

Thanks in advance for the input.

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Doug

Don't let fear or common sense stop you from trying to build something

1) Dunno. Careful.

2) pretty much the standard glues will work, HHG or Titebond...

3) .100 is IMO thick for a rosewood. On an OM I'd be more inclined to .085ish, maybe .090. Depends on the actual piece.

Is this guitar staying in country? If so than the print off documents might be ok. If you are planning to send it out of country than you had better do some research. Did you by any chance see the documents before purchasing to verify that they are in order?

On point #2, wiping with a solvent is never necessary or a good idea. A freshly planed or sanded joint should be sufficient for gluing.

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Josh House

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"3. Optimal back thickness for an OM? I usually shoot for about 0.100" but might that be a bit thick?"

If you are going for a so called "reflective" back rather than an active back .010 might work fine and be a little less prone to cracking.

I think you might mean .100. Ten thousandths is might thin!

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

On rosewood I usually thin to about .090 on the back and .070 on the sides. Its a heavy wood and I like lighter guitars. For glue, I have always used LMI instrument builders glue. I never wipe it down with any kind of solvent, but rather, make sure its a clean dry fresh edge before gluing. I will prep the center seam and glue it up the same day. So far, no problems.
Be right back, I have to find some wood to knock on.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

I've built several with Brazilian. Never did anything different as far as gluing. I use hide to join the plates and try to glue up shortly after joining the edges so they are fresh.

My backs are usually around 0.100 or a little less. I guess you'd call them reflective.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

"I think you might mean .100. Ten thousandths is might thin!"

Doh!

Thanks all. Much appreciated.

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Doug

Don't let fear or common sense stop you from trying to build something

.090 thickness. And I would for sure wipe the glued edges with acetone. You'll be surprised at the oil it removes.

There are many that believe wiping it pulls oil to the surface...

Don't wipe. I don't go there, even with Cocobolo. Definitely not needed on BRW.

I go between 0.080" and 0.090" on backs.

At this stage for me I'm passing info passed to me. But I'm a believer.

I doubt that much of the so-called 'documentation' would actually pass a test when exporting. My 'advice' is to keep it in the US.
http://www.grammar-monster.com/easily_confused/advice_advise.htm

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John

1. No!!!
2. No....
3. Yes...depending on the BRW

Who was the seller that is only providing photocopied documents?
2. No
3.yes

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Pat

1. Use your best judgement, and I don't know Canada's laws or regulations regarding CITES listed species.

2. Prep....
Flood with thin CA glue at glue-up thickness. BRW will crack, so you may as well stabilize it as best you can.

3. I tend to work BRW backs between .070 and .085. Depending on the wood. Current OM is around .073 I think.

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."